tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5511756732214930392024-03-05T02:20:17.189-05:00Giovi & Lori around the worldEcuadorian guy & Italian girl discovering the worldLorihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12421559865858165434noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-551175673221493039.post-37526231989294566762012-04-18T12:17:00.000-05:002012-04-18T12:18:14.149-05:00Bolivia-part 1<b>07-08.04.2012 - LAKE TITICACA</b><br />
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We saw the wonderful Titicaca lake for the first time from the hostel rooftop terrace while waiting for breakfast...however, the waitress never came and we had to rush to the bus terminal with empty stomach!<br />
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<i>Morning bus from Puno (Peru) to Copacabana (Bolivia). Company: Panamericana. Price: 10 soles. Departure: 7.30am Arrival 12.00pm (4.5 hours journey)</i><br />
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This bus took us to the boarder of Peru with Bolivia. Honestly, it didn't look like a border, more like a market! We did all the procedures to get our entry visa and arrived in Copacabana.
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The journey was mostly alongside the coast of the Lake Titicaca...the views were great: it doesn't look like a lake, more like a sea and the landscapes were stunning.<br />
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It was the Saturday before Easter, right the time when all Bolivians from La Paz travel to Copacabana in a sort of catholic pilgrimage, so what we decided to do is go right away to the Isla del Sol, the most famous island of the lake inhabited by an Aymara community.<br />
We took a boat together with island residents that were carrying food provisions to the island: the sun was shining and the colour of the sky and of the clouds made the whole landscape look even more amazing.<br />
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Once on the Island (south town, Yumani), a little local kid named Jon won our attention and escorted us to his auntie's hostel. The path was quite steep and altitude at almost 4000mt above sea level didn't make it easier! The hostel was a very basic accommodation, but with a terrace overlooking the lake and the Cordillera Real snowcapped mountains, so we decided to stay there (and make the little guy happy with a small tip). This hostel was the best decision and later you will understand why!<br />
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We spent the afternoon in a local "restaurant" with the terrace overlooking the other side of the island, where we could admire the sunset.<br />
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Then we had a delicious quinoa soup & trout for dinner at another restaurant and finally went to our room and watched a movie. After a while, a bright light from outside got our attention and we went outside to check it out....well, in front of us was one of the most amazing and unforgettable scenarios we have ever experienced in our lives...a huge, bright full moon right in front of the hostel, reflecting on the still water... absolutely breath-taking.<br />
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But it didn't end here.<br />
The following morning we woke up early to check the sunrise...well...the sunrise was if possible even more stunning than the moon last night!! and our terrace was a perfect spot to admire its beauty. We will never forget this Easter weekend for the rest of our lives!<br />
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Watch it here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Uomh3iZ54c">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Uomh3iZ54c</a><br />
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After breakfast we took off for a trek towards the north part of the island...it was a pleasant sunny trek with lovely views of the lake and again nature surprised us with some impressive creations among the clouds.<br />
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Whilst Yumani was almost a "mountain" village, Challapampa on the north side was like a coastal town, including a real beach. Sometimes this island really reminded me of some Mediterranean island... We had lunch at a restaurant and waited for our boat to get back to mainland Copacabana. On the way back we stopped at some floating islands, which were interesting to see, but really too touristic.<br />
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Back in Copacabana at about 6pm, we took right away a bus to La Paz...as all buses were full, all we could get was an economic small bus with local people. The journey was longer than expected because of the great traffic of people returning to La Paz after their "pilgrimage". We were quite surprised when all of a sudden we were all asked to get off the bus and board a boat to cross to the other side of another lake...there is no bridge so the bus has to go empty on a boat and all passengers on another one and wait for the bus on the other side!!!<br />
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We arrived in La Paz at 10.30pm, took a taxi and went straight to a random hostel called Maya Inn, right in the centre of the city on Calle Sagarnaga. It was not a great hostel but the location was perfect.<br />
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<b>09-10.04.2012 - LA PAZ</b><br />
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After breakfast (very basic breakfast with bread, jam, butter and tea/coffee), we took a walk in the centre and did some souvenir shopping at the many market stalls on the street. We liked La Paz a lot, as everyone does I guess because of its relaxing feeling. We discovered a restaurant/cafe called Banais (with wi-fi), that soon became our favourite spot in La Paz!<br />
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In the evening we went to the bus terminal with the intention of leaving for Uyuni in the south of Bolivia, only to find out no bus was leaving the city. Why? apparently some community had trapped some thieves, now police were releasing the thieves and the community was blocking all the ways out of La Paz in sign of protest.<br />
It is quite common here in Bolivia to paralyze the roads to protest for something...in any case, it was interesting to see the unhappiness of people about it and we even got interviewed by a local tv!! :-) At the end we had to return to the hostel and spend one more night and day in La Paz. Not too bad, as Lorena was able to do even more shopping!! :D<br />
<br />Lorihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12421559865858165434noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-551175673221493039.post-46178024288650211882012-04-15T08:08:00.003-05:002012-04-15T08:08:41.735-05:00Lima-Arequipa-PunoGuys, we are realizing it is really difficult to keep on track with this travel blog, mainly because we are always on the road and the few times we get an internet connection we just check our emails or leave short messages on Facebook! Anyway, we will still try to keep you updated and here is what happened after our time in Huaraz!<br />
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<b>04.04.2012</b></div>
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<i>Night bus from Huaraz to Lima. Company: CIAL. Price: 40 soles. Departure: 22.30, arrival 6.30 am the day after (8 hours journey). </i><br />
As usual, Peru buses are very comfortable and we slept most of the time. It's quite interesting to point out that to in Peru they register your passport number each time you buy a ticket, moreover they often ask you for a finger print before boarding and they even film each person sitting on the bus before leaving!!! Amazing security levels and top service, some buses even give you a blanket and/or refreshments and snacks, lots of leg space and seats going back 145/160 degrees and more...feels like being in a plane business class!<br />
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<b>05.054.2012 - LIMA</b><br />
The annoying part of Lima is that each bus company has its own bus terminal, which means looking for the next bus can get quite annoying and expensive as the terminals are far away from each other. Plus, it was Easter friday which meant almost all buses were full. Luckily, we got a taxi with an older driver (in a veeeeery old car) who advised us about Flores bus company (yes, like Giovanni's surname!) which is slightly lower class but with lots of buses running...it was actually not bad at all (nice buses and good service), and we got a ticket right away for our next destination.<br />
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As we had a few hours to spend in Lima before catching our next bus, we decided to take a taxi into Miraflores, one of the nicest areas close to the beach. We had breakfast at McDonalds with an excellent free wifi connection (good enough to make Skype calls home!) and then had a walk till a viewpoint over the seaside....well, what can we say, we absolutely loved that part of Lima! It feels like being in a European town with a coastal vibe, people walking on the street in flipflops, nice bars and restaurants with outdoor tables, and the view of the ocean...well...wow!!!<br />
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<br />We hope to visit the rest of Lima (at least the historical centre) next time we will be there before catching our planes back home, so to have a better idea of the rest of the city. So far, we were surprised to see so much space (streets are spacious and bright, as opposite to Quito, obviously due to geographical setting).<br />
We noticed they have pretty crappy little mini-buses as the most used public system, with controllers hanging out of the door and shouting the destination...these old minibuses really don't go with a city that looks quite modern! Also, the taxis are not all the same colour, which was surprising to us.<br />
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We then returned to the bus terminal and we had dinner at a small restaurant closeby, where we had a funny moment with the waitress, trying to understand what we were about to eat/drink :-)<br />
# We have "palta" salad available<br />
*...what is "palta"?<br />
# Palta is....palta!<br />
She really did not manage to explain what it was, as we speak Spanish and Giovanni is South American, she was quite surprised that we didn't know what "palta" was....well, guess what we received? An avocado salad!! Apparently not called "aguacate" in Peru :-) We also had a "carambòla" juice, which at present time we still don't know what fruit it is...(according to Google, it's called "starfruit") and we discovered that rice here is boiled together with garlic.<br />
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<i>Bus from Lima to Arequipa. Company: Flores. Price: 90 soles. Departure: 14:00, arrival 6.30 am the day after (16.5 hours journey).</i> (Our best bus experience so far, excellent seats and service)<br />
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<b>06.04.2012 - AREQUIPA</b><br />
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We only stopped over for a few hours in this city, but we were really glad we did as it is a lovely colonial style town. Unluckily almost all churches and the famous monastery were closed as it was Easter friday (and apparently some typical festival would have started later in the day), but we could still relax, have breakfast and lunch outside on a balcony overlooking the main square, take pictures and enjoy the mild sunny weather of Arequipa.<br />
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"Switch off your cell phone, God wants to talk to you" ;-)<br />
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Some sort of ice-cream...yummy!<br />
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<br />With the local cocktail "pisco sour" :-) (which I left because really tooooo strong!!)<br />
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<i>Bus from Arequipa to Puno. Company: Flores. Price: 18 soles. Departure: 14.00, cancelled due to lack of people. (annoying!!) Rescheduled for departure at 16:00, arrival 22.30</i> <em>(6.5 hours journey).</em> <br />
(This bus was a normal bus, so more unconfortable, but ok for the relatively short journey)<br />
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As we arrived in Puno on Lake Titicaca, we got to a hostel (finally a shower and a bed again!!) which gave us a nice room by a lady next door. We just had a quick walk in the centre at night, had a pizza and then went to bed, as our plan was to leave right the next morning to Bolivia!<br />
</div>Lorihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12421559865858165434noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-551175673221493039.post-50273288273172912852012-04-09T11:56:00.002-05:002012-04-10T12:02:48.037-05:00Huaraz & Cordillera Blanca<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><u>30.03.2012</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>MIRADOR</b></span></div>
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So, thanks to Lonely Planet, last night we found a nice hostel called Aldo's Guest House quite in the centre of Huaraz, and today we decided to take it easy and spend the day checking out the town and planning our trekking trips. Huaraz is a nice touristic town set in the wonderful scenery of Cordillera Blanca part of the Andes. The weather was nice and we decided to take a taxi ride to the viewpoint of Huaraz. This is what we could see :)<br />
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We then had a set menu lunch in a typical restaurant recommended by the nice taxi driver...the interesting part of lunch was the drink, called "emoliente" (softener?!)..when we asked what it was made of, the lady answered among other ingredients: dog's leg, horse's tail...you can only imagine our faces :)</div>
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We had dinner almost every night in a nice restaurant called Teo's where they served the most amazing chicken soup: it was a bowl big enough to serve three people, including spaghetti, a chicken piece, egg and boiled potato, we felt it was a hard job to finish it up, but how yummy!!</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>ALD'O'S GUEST HOUSE</b></span></div>
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We made good use of the hostel internet and called our families :)</div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><u>31.03.2012</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>TRIP TO PASTORURI GLACIAR </b></span></div>
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Today we took a day trip to a glaciar called Pastoruri, at almost 5000mt altitude! On the way there with the minibus we could buy our first sachet of coca leaves. You are supposed to chew them to help with altitude, but they are really bitter! </div>
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Other people in our group were a nice couple of a peruvian girl with german boyfriend, and a couple from the Uk, plus many peruvians. On the way there, we could observe the weird "Puya Raimondii", a plant which is 10-15mt tall, lives about 60-80 years, then flowers once and dies. Nature (in Quechua: Pachamama, mother earth) is really amazing. We could also observe some rock paintings from many centuries b.c. and finally, after a slightly hard walk (mainly due to altitude) the impressive glaciar. </div>
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The bad part of the trip was the lunch at the restaurant on the way back: we asked for roast guinea pig, but were served with a super small and hard guinea pig which was impossible to eat, and a couple of potatoes. Sofar, we had a better guinea pig in Ecuador! :)
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><u>01-04.04.2012</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>SANTA CRUZ TREKKING (4 days - 3 nights)</b></span></div>
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This was the highlight of our stay in Huaraz, and also the hardest thing we've done so far in the journey; we signed up for this 4-day- trek with Galaxia agency and left together with other 11 foreign tourist, 2 guides, a cook and a donkey driver (and of course a few donkeys to carry our stuff). 120 dollars per person all inclusive. Unfortunately it was not possible to do the whole hike because of an avalanche which cut the path in two, but we still had a chance to have an unforgettable experience with a very nice group. </div>
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The group was made of: a Korean girl, a German couple, two German girls, a German-Swiss gentleman and a group of 3 guys from the US with the mother and brother of one of them visiting during their trip around South America. A super cool group and we had a lot of fun together! We had two guides, Ricardo and Eric. Unfortunately Ricardo ( the lead guide) was not a very good guide and this ruined a bit the experience...we felt he didn't really care about the group and about giving info to us or keeping the group together, while Eric was a bit shy and unexperienced, so we were lucky to be a group of such nice people at least :)</div>
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<b>DAY ONE</b></div>
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During the looooong bus ride (about 5 hours) which took us to the starting point of the trek, we could visit the nice lakes of Llanganuco.</div>
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We finally arrived to Vaqueria and we started our trek passing by several "campesinos" (farmer) houses, where kids were anxiously begging for sweets and cookies. For most of the trek, we will let pictures speak by themselves. :) </div>
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First campsite: when we arrived to the campsites, the tents were usually already up and ready for us, and coca tea waiting for us, which was nice.<br />
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The US teenagers were unstoppable and never tired! Always up to some activities and always leading the hike.<br />
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In the eating tent, having Mate de Coca :)<br />
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<b>DAY TWO</b><br />
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We were a bit disappointed today because the guide offered the group to skip a part of the trek (which already was shorter), which meant we wouldn't see the Alpamayo mountain, which we really wanted to see. The guide "sold" this other option assuring we would be able to come back to the start point through an alternative way, instead of through the same path. (the sentence "there are two options" will be never forgotten by the group, you will later discover why!!)<br />
Unfortunately we had quite a lot of rain today, but we reached the campsite just after midday.<br />
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Second campsite<br />
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A brave group of four (Giovanni, Lorena, Orion - a US guy with an amazing sunny personality and incredible walking skills with simple running shoes!, & Rinaldo, the german-swiss gentleman) decided to continue the trek on their own up to the Punta Union pass (under the rain!). The view from the top was cloudy and foggy but still beautiful, and the feeling of achieving the top before anybody else is great! Sometimes it is nice to share certain moments within fewer people...<br />
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Once back the rain stopped for a while and the snowcapped mountains showed their beauty. The view of the mountains at night, with an amazing bright moon and the starry sky is breath-taking!<br />
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<b>DAY THREE</b></div>
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The whole group climbed to Punta Union pass. This time the view from the top was less cloudy. On the way up and on the top, our guide Eric started to play a Kena, an andean instrument similar to the flute. It was magic to listen to those sounds on the highest point of our hike! (we will post a video as soon as we get a good internet connection)</div>
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Ricardo taking pictures of the group with all our cameras :)</div>
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Now to the alternative route back! It turned out to be sooooo hard, first coming down very slippery stones, then through wet meadows, we were falling down and slipping at every step! Towards the end Lorena was feeling really dizzy as we had been on the road for long with very little food (they only gave us a sandwich and few chocolates for the whoooole day!) and this made things worse.<br />
We reached the campsite well after dark and under the rain at 7:30pm!!!! :( However, we did feel like heroes to have accomplished that (and veeeery angry with Ricardo for taking us to that and not to the Alpamayo!!!)<br />
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<b>DAY FOUR</b></div>
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We woke up and had a nice breakfast outside, then walked under (finally!) a nice sun back to the town of Vaqueria where it all started. This time it was an easy trek of few hours and we even had the time to stop and chat to the kids (and give them all the sweets and chocolates that we had saved up for them). The bus arrived at 11am and took us back to Huaraz. The sky was finally very bright and on the way back we could admire a looot of mountains! </div>
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Once back in Huaraz, we just had a shower, dinner and straight took a night bus to Lima, the first of our stopovers on our way to Bolivia! :) </div>Lorihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12421559865858165434noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-551175673221493039.post-27951591728975085092012-03-30T17:05:00.000-05:002012-03-31T01:08:16.087-05:00From Ecuador to Peru<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Welcome to our travel blog! We hope to entertain you and also to give some info to those travelling the same itinerary :) This time we are travelling to Peru and Bolivia for about a month, departing from Ecuador. </div>
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The first part of our journey was getting from Quito,
Ecuador to Huaraz, Peru. We were not interested in visiting the coast of Peru,
we just wanted to get to Huaraz on the Cordillera Blanca part of the Andes as
quickly as possible. This is how we made it :) (with pictures)</div>
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<b><u>Tuesday, 27.03.2012</u></b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>QUITO-LOJA</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Bus company: Viajeros<o:p></o:p></div>
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Price: 14.20 USD<br />
Departure from south Quito (Quitumbe bus station) at 4.30pm<br />
Arrival to Loja at 4.30am the next day (12hrs journey)<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">It was not a direct bus (Trans. Loja has one departing at 7pm but costs USD17 and we are "poor"... :D ) , so it made stops in various cities in Ecuador to pick up more passengers. </li>
</ul>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"></span><br />
<ul><span style="text-align: justify;">
<li>Interesting stop for dinner in a restaurant in the middle
of nowhere, where we had a chicken so hard it probably lived 100 years before
ending up in our plate :) </li>
</span></ul>
<span style="text-align: justify;">
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<ul>
<li style="text-align: justify;">The whole journey we had to watch/listen to the movies
they played on the bus at super high volume, including a Stallone movie that was
maybe even older than the chicken</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">When they run out of action/horror movies, the driver
delighted us with folkloric music (i.e. a woman sending her ex boyfriend to
hell). Lovely.</li>
<li style="text-align: justify;">Once in Loja, we had breakfast at a restaurant
inside the bus station to fill 2.5 hours of waiting time until the next
bus. Breakfast was crap, but we had the chance to improvise a phone/laptop
recharging station using the restaurants wall sockets ;) </li>
</ul>
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<o:p> </o:p><b><u>Wednesday, 28.03.2012</u></b><br />
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<b>
LOJA - PIURA (Crossing the boarder)</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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Bus company: Transportes Loja<o:p></o:p></div>
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Price: 10 USD<br />
Departure from Loja bus station at 7am (only other option was leaving at
11pm)<br />
Arrival to Piura at 4.15pm (9hrs journey)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<ul>
<li>After a
short breakfast stop at a small village called Catamayo, we travelled to
Macarà, a small village set in a tropical environment where heat and humidity
started to be unbearable.</li>
<li><span lang="EN-US"> </span>Just
after this town (about 12.30pm) we got to the boarder where we had to get down
the bus and get the exit/entry stamps on our passports. In the meanwhile, the
bus waited on the other side. We were finally in Peru!</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>From here, it was a very hot journey through a
semi-desertic part of Peru. We passed through a town called
"Sullana", which we agreed to rename "the smelliest and most
horrible city in the world", after seeing and smelling all the tons
of rubbish left on the sides of the roads (and about everywhere). Not a nice
first impression of Peru :( Transport in Sullana (and most places in North
Peru) was via taxi-moto. </li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>After Sullana, we finally got to Piura, which is not what
you call an interesting city, but it was rather clean and more importantly,
with all services like restaurants, shops etc. We decided to stop here for
a few hours and travel to the next city by night bus, so we had lunch &
dinner at a Piuran version of McDonalds (called Bembos on Ayacucho street, with
free wifi) and got a crappy hostel nearby for 20 soles just to leave our
luggage and have a shower.</li>
</ul>
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<ul>
<li>The most interesting part of Piura was the traffic and especially the taxis...they use the car horns literally
every second and they never ever give way to pedestrians, not even when
pedestrian light is green! :S Taxi fares are 3 soles per ride. (just over $1)</li>
</ul>
<b>PIURA - CHIMBOTE</b><br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Bus company: Ittsa, semi-cama<br />
Price: 35 soles (=$13.50)<br />
Departure from Piura (Ittsa station) at 11pm<br />
Arrival to Chimbote at 7am the next day (8hrs journey) </div>
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<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<ul><span lang="EN-US">
<li><span lang="EN-US">Night
buses in Peru are amazing: this was a semi-cama, which means you can bring the
seat back down 145° and lift the leg rest, but there are also other buses where
the seat goes down to become a mini-bed. </span>After the bad night on
Quito-Loja bus, this was a great chance to get a good night sleep, which we
happily did :) </li>
</span></ul>
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>The only thing we don't like about Peru transport system
is that in most cities each bus company has its own station, which means that
if you change bus company you have to travel from one to the other. It was nice
to find out, though, that all bus companies stop at the same station in
Chimbote, so we could stay there for 1.5 hr gap between our buses and even drop
our luggage at the bus company office. </li>
</ul>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>Chimbote is the biggest fishing harbor in Peru and they
have a big fish industry...the smell is quite strong, but not unbearable. This area is still semi-desertic and very dusty!</li>
</ul>
</div>
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<b><u><br /></u></b><br />
<b><u>Thursday, 29.03.2012</u></b><br />
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<b><br />
CHIMBOTE-HUARAZ via Cañon del Pato</b><o:p></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Bus company: Yungay<br />
Price: 25 soles (=$9.50)<br />
Departure from Chimbote at 8.30am (only time for this service)<br />
Arrival to Huaraz at 5.30pm (9hrs journey) </div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<span lang="EN-US"></span><br />
<ul><span lang="EN-US">
<li style="text-align: justify;"><span lang="EN-US">This was
the most interesting bus ride of all. </span>It is possible to reach Huaraz with
a faster bus, but we decided instead for this service, which takes you through
an amazing canyon. The road is mostly unpaved and most of the time the bus
travels deep inside the canyon, alongside a river. Sometimes the bus was so
close to the edge that we felt we would fall into the river, but it was indeed
a great experience, those rocky mountains were huge!! The best choice is sitting
on the left side of the bus.</li>
</span></ul>
<span lang="EN-US">
</span></div>
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<ul>
<li>The weather was extremely hot and the bus stopped at
various points to pick up or drop people where you would think nobody (aside
maybe a coyote!!) could ever live. </li>
</ul>
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<div>
<ul>
<li>We stopped for lunch at a restaurant
inside the canyon where we had a homemade chicken soup and where a nice
Peruvian man offered us a glass of Inka-Cola, the most loved drink in Peru
which tastes a bit like bubblegum.</li>
</ul>
</div>
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<div>
<ul>
<li><span style="text-align: justify;">Towards the end, the bus reaches the Andes where the air
is colder and the mountains are green. It was quite cloudy, however we managed
to take a glimpse of Huascaran snowcapped summit. And we finally reached our
first destination: Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca! Time to find a real bed to
sleep in, a hot shower and some demanding trekking! :)</span></li>
</ul>
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</div>Lorihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12421559865858165434noreply@blogger.com1