Sunday, 15 April 2012

Lima-Arequipa-Puno

Guys, we are realizing it is really difficult to keep on track with this travel blog, mainly because we are always on the road and the few times we get an internet connection we just check our emails or leave short messages on Facebook! Anyway, we will still try to keep you updated and here is what happened after our time in Huaraz!

04.04.2012
Night bus from Huaraz to Lima. Company: CIAL. Price: 40 soles. Departure: 22.30, arrival 6.30 am the day after (8 hours journey). 
As usual, Peru buses are very comfortable and we slept most of the time. It's quite interesting to point out that to in Peru they register your passport number each time you buy a ticket, moreover they often ask you for a finger print before boarding and they even film each person sitting on the bus before leaving!!! Amazing security levels and top service, some buses even give you a blanket and/or refreshments and snacks, lots of leg space and seats going back 145/160 degrees and more...feels like being in a plane business class!


05.054.2012 - LIMA
The annoying part of Lima is that each bus company has its own bus terminal, which means looking for the next bus can get quite annoying and expensive as the terminals are far away from each other. Plus, it was Easter friday which meant almost all buses were full. Luckily, we got a taxi with an older driver (in a veeeeery old car) who advised us about Flores bus company (yes, like Giovanni's surname!) which is slightly lower class but with lots of buses running...it was actually not bad at all (nice buses and good service), and we got a ticket right away for our next destination.

As we had a few hours to spend in Lima before catching our next bus, we decided to take a taxi into Miraflores, one of the nicest areas close to the beach. We had breakfast at McDonalds with an excellent free wifi connection (good enough to make Skype calls home!) and then had a walk till a viewpoint over the seaside....well, what can we say, we absolutely loved that part of Lima! It feels like being in a European town with a coastal vibe, people walking on the street in flipflops, nice bars and restaurants with outdoor tables, and the view of the ocean...well...wow!!!












We hope to visit the rest of Lima (at least the historical centre) next time we will be there before catching our planes back home, so to have a better idea of the rest of the city. So far, we were surprised to see so much space (streets are spacious and bright, as opposite to Quito, obviously due to geographical setting).
We noticed they have pretty crappy little mini-buses as the most used public system, with controllers hanging out of the door and shouting the destination...these old minibuses really don't go with a city that looks quite modern! Also, the taxis are not all the same colour, which was surprising to us.


We then returned to the bus terminal and we had dinner at a small restaurant closeby, where we had a funny moment with the waitress, trying to understand what we were about to eat/drink :-)
# We have "palta" salad available
*...what is "palta"?
# Palta is....palta!
She really did not manage to explain what it was, as we speak Spanish and Giovanni is South American, she was quite surprised that we didn't know what "palta" was....well, guess what we received? An avocado salad!! Apparently not called "aguacate" in Peru :-) We also had a "carambòla" juice, which at present time we still don't know what fruit it is...(according to Google, it's called "starfruit") and we discovered that rice here is boiled together with garlic.

Bus from Lima to Arequipa. Company: Flores. Price: 90 soles. Departure: 14:00, arrival 6.30 am the day after (16.5 hours journey). (Our best bus experience so far, excellent seats and service)

06.04.2012 - AREQUIPA

We only stopped over for a few hours in this city, but we were really glad we did as it is a lovely colonial style town. Unluckily almost all churches and the famous monastery were closed as it was Easter friday (and apparently some typical festival would have started later in the day), but we could still relax, have breakfast and lunch outside on a balcony overlooking the main square, take pictures and enjoy the mild sunny weather of Arequipa.




"Switch off your cell phone, God wants to talk to you" ;-)









Some sort of ice-cream...yummy!



With the local cocktail "pisco sour" :-) (which I left because really tooooo strong!!)




Bus from Arequipa to Puno. Company: Flores. Price: 18 soles. Departure: 14.00, cancelled due to lack of people. (annoying!!) Rescheduled for departure at 16:00, arrival 22.30 (6.5 hours journey).
(This bus was a normal bus, so more unconfortable, but ok for the relatively short journey)

As we arrived in Puno on Lake Titicaca, we got to a hostel (finally a shower and a bed again!!) which gave us a nice room by a lady next door. We just had a quick walk in the centre at night, had a pizza and then went to bed, as our plan was to leave right the next morning to Bolivia!

Monday, 9 April 2012

Huaraz & Cordillera Blanca

30.03.2012

MIRADOR

So, thanks to Lonely Planet, last night we found a nice hostel called Aldo's Guest House quite in the centre of Huaraz, and today we decided to take it easy and spend the day checking out the town and planning our trekking trips. Huaraz is a nice touristic town set in the wonderful scenery of Cordillera Blanca part of the Andes. The weather was nice and we decided to take a taxi ride to the viewpoint of Huaraz. This is what we could see :)





We then had a set menu lunch in a typical restaurant recommended by the nice taxi driver...the interesting part of lunch was the drink, called "emoliente" (softener?!)..when we asked what it was made of, the lady answered among other ingredients: dog's leg, horse's tail...you can only imagine our faces :)
We had dinner almost every night in a nice restaurant called Teo's where they served the most amazing chicken soup: it was a bowl big enough to serve three people, including spaghetti, a chicken piece, egg and boiled potato, we felt it was a hard job to finish it up, but how yummy!!

ALD'O'S GUEST HOUSE

We made good use of the hostel internet and called our families :)


31.03.2012

TRIP TO PASTORURI GLACIAR 

Today we took a day trip to a glaciar called Pastoruri, at almost 5000mt altitude! On the way there with the minibus we could buy our first sachet of coca leaves. You are supposed to chew them to help with altitude, but they are really bitter! 


Other people in our group were a nice couple of a peruvian girl with german boyfriend, and a couple from the Uk, plus many peruvians. On the way there, we could observe the weird "Puya Raimondii", a plant which is 10-15mt tall, lives about 60-80 years, then flowers once and dies. Nature (in Quechua: Pachamama, mother earth) is really amazing. We could also observe some rock paintings from many centuries b.c. and finally, after a slightly hard walk (mainly due to altitude) the impressive glaciar. 

















The bad part of the trip was the lunch at the restaurant on the way back: we asked for roast guinea pig, but were served with a super small and hard guinea pig which was impossible to eat, and a couple of potatoes. Sofar, we had a better guinea pig in Ecuador! :)



01-04.04.2012

SANTA CRUZ TREKKING (4 days - 3 nights)
This was the highlight of our stay in Huaraz, and also the hardest thing we've done so far in the journey; we signed up for this 4-day- trek with Galaxia agency and left together with other 11 foreign tourist, 2 guides, a cook and a donkey driver (and of course a few donkeys to carry our stuff). 120 dollars per person all inclusive. Unfortunately it was not possible to do the whole hike because of an avalanche which cut the path in two, but we still had a chance to have an unforgettable experience with a very nice group. 


The group was made of: a Korean girl, a German couple, two German girls, a German-Swiss gentleman and a group of 3 guys from the US with the mother and brother of one of them visiting during their trip around South America. A super cool group and we had a lot of fun together! We had two guides, Ricardo and Eric. Unfortunately Ricardo ( the lead guide) was not a very good guide and this ruined a bit the experience...we felt he didn't really care about the group and about giving info to us or keeping the group together, while Eric was a bit shy and unexperienced, so we were lucky to be a group of such nice people at least :)

DAY ONE

During the looooong bus ride (about 5 hours) which took us to the starting point of the trek, we could visit the nice lakes of Llanganuco.




We finally arrived to Vaqueria and we started our trek passing by several "campesinos" (farmer) houses, where kids were anxiously begging for sweets and cookies. For most of the trek, we will let pictures speak by themselves. :) 





First campsite: when we arrived to the campsites, the tents were usually already up and ready for us, and coca tea waiting for us, which was nice.





The US teenagers were unstoppable and never tired! Always up to some activities and always leading the hike.


In the eating tent, having Mate de Coca :)




DAY TWO


We were a bit disappointed today because the guide offered the group to skip a part of the trek (which already was shorter), which meant we wouldn't see the Alpamayo mountain, which we really wanted to see. The guide "sold" this other option assuring we would be able to come back to the start point through an alternative way, instead of through the same path. (the sentence "there are two options" will be never forgotten by the group, you will later discover why!!)
Unfortunately we had quite a lot of rain today, but we reached the campsite just after midday.




Second campsite


A brave group of four (Giovanni, Lorena, Orion - a US guy with an amazing sunny personality and incredible walking skills with simple running shoes!,  & Rinaldo, the german-swiss gentleman) decided to continue the trek on their own up to the Punta Union pass (under the rain!). The view from the top was cloudy and foggy but still beautiful, and the feeling of achieving the top before anybody else is great! Sometimes it is nice to share certain moments within fewer people...








Once back the rain stopped for a while and the snowcapped mountains showed their beauty. The view of the mountains at night, with an amazing bright moon and the starry sky is breath-taking!






DAY THREE

The whole group climbed to Punta Union pass. This time the view from the top was less cloudy. On the way up and on the top, our guide Eric started to play a Kena, an andean instrument similar to the flute. It was magic to listen to those sounds on the highest point of our hike! (we will post a video as soon as we get a good internet connection)









Ricardo taking pictures of the group with all our cameras :)



Now to the alternative route back! It turned out to be sooooo hard, first coming down very slippery stones, then through wet meadows, we were falling down and slipping at every step! Towards the end Lorena was feeling really dizzy as we had been on the road for long with very little food (they only gave us a sandwich and few chocolates for the whoooole day!) and this made things worse.
We reached the campsite well after dark and under the rain at 7:30pm!!!! :( However, we did feel like heroes to have accomplished that (and veeeery angry with Ricardo for taking us to that and not to the Alpamayo!!!)













DAY FOUR

We woke up and had a nice breakfast outside, then walked under (finally!) a nice sun back to the town of Vaqueria where it all started. This time it was an easy trek of few hours and we even had the time to stop and chat to the kids (and give them all the sweets and chocolates that we had saved up for them). The bus arrived at 11am and took us back to Huaraz. The sky was finally very bright and on the way back we could admire a looot of mountains! 











Once back in Huaraz, we just had a shower, dinner and straight took a night bus to Lima, the first of our stopovers on our way to Bolivia!  :)